Sanctuary in the South: Wilson’s Promontory and its Lighthouse
Convicts built the lighthouse on Wilson’s Promontory in 1859, and it still guides vessels round a dangerous but interesting coastline. Situated at the southern extremity of the 100,000 acre National Park of Wilson’s Promontory, it is the southernmost corner of Australia, and in the summer months it is possibly the coolest place in the continent.
To reach the lighthouse from the land one must take a train to Fish Creek, then walk or motor the 28 miles over the sandy isthmus that separates the mainland from the Promontory and Fish Creek from the Government Tourist Chalet at Darby River. The road ends at Darby, and an excellent track runs 22 miles more to the lighthouse. It would be hard to find a walk leading through more interesting country. Undulating plains of grass are checkered here and there with tiny clumps of wildflowers and heath, and by creek-side and on mountain slope sheoak and bluegum vie with the tea tree and honeysuckle. High granite peaks rise from the sea’s edge.
Climb a high ridge known as Oberon Saddle, and the glorious vista of Oberon Bay stretches away beneath you. Looking down from this saddle or shoulder of Mount Oberon toward the bay, first the Glennie group of islands, sparkling seaward, catches the eye: then Norgate Peak, rearing sentinel-like at the farther end of the bay. But the finest sight of all is to see and hear the music of the long lines of Southern Ocean rollers, rolling unceasingly shoreward to lose themselves on Oberon’s gently shelving beach.
Should you decide to go to the Promontory by water, you have two ways of approach—one by a lake boat which leaves the lakes and touches at the lighthouse; the other by motorboat from Port Albert or Welshpool, over the calm waters of Corner Inlet to Sealers’ Cove or the eastern shore of the Promontory. Sealers’ Cove differs vastly from the bays on the western side of the Promontory. Whereas the west coast is open to westerly storms and boisterous winds, Sealers’ Cove opens on the comparatively sheltered waters toward Corner Inlet. The vegetation also differs: besides the usual bluegum and lilly-pilly, beech and ferns make a welcome appearance. An old timber tramway, long since abandoned, follows Sealers’ Creek, and its old jetty, now sadly decayed at the shore end of the line, marks a time long ago when timber was shipped into Port Albert. I have heard people wrangling over the rival merits of Sealers’ Cove and Oberon Bay, but the two cannot be compared. Each has distinctive beauty.
The native game in the sanctuary must be considerable, for emus, deer, kangaroo, wallabies, and native bears are met frequently. Despite these attractions, the Promontory and the lighthouse are seldom visited. Except during the Christmas and Easter holidays, when walking parties stay at the lighthouse, the keepers of the light catch only occasional glimpses of the rangers of National Park, and perhaps the seamen of the lighthouse boat. The lighthouse-keepers and their families are most hospitable. They have set aside an old comfortable building for the chance visitor. With several rooms, a huge kitchen and stove complete, and perfect views from the doors and windows—what more could one wish for?
Besides the picturesque old stone buildings and lighthouse, there is another structure more recent known as the “look out.” With its large balconies and giant telescope, it is a never-ending source of interest, for from here all vessels plying between Sydney and Melbourne are signalled. They have to pass close to the light, perhaps a mile or two away, though it seems to be much nearer. One can spend hour after hour watching sailing vessels, interstate boats, tramp steamers, and liners gliding between the lighthouse and a small island several miles to the south, and, with the telescope, pick out people and every movement on the decks of the ships. Sometimes one can even discern seals basking on the rocky shores of the island beyond. One of the finest sights I have ever witnessed was from the lookout. A solitary cloud drifting over the upper portion of the island to the south, a familiar occurrence, was caught by a shaft from the evening sun and tinted a delightful ethereal pink, which, with a silvery green sea beneath it, made a picture never likely to be forgotten.
The lighthouse on Wilson’s Promontory, taken from the deck of a passing steamer.
Wilson’s Promontory has been the scene of many wrecks, but the bravery of the lighthouse people, and the bright flashes the light gives out every 15 seconds, have minimised loss of life in recent years. On April 11, 1846, with the loss of 14 lives, the cutter Domain went down off the Promontory. The loss of that ship and that of the Clommel, near Corner Inlet, probably led to the erection of the lighthouse. The latest ship to end its travels near the Promontory was the interstate steamer Kanowna, which in February of 1929, ran into Cleft Island, or, as it is better known, Skull Rock, during bad weather, and subsequently sank. A low fog obscured the Promontory light at the time, but thanks to wireless and the Mackarra, which was at hand, no loss of life resulted. The present light, installed in 1913, floats in mercury, and gives four flashes every 15 seconds. During my visit there were two keepers and an assistant keeper, each working separate shifts.
There is rarely any difficulty in landing provisions and mails from the lighthouse boat, as the lighthouse boasts two landing stages, one on each side of the peninsula. Should a storm be raging on one side, the waters at the landing-stage on the other side would be comparatively calm. The fishing from the rocks below the lighthouse is easy and excellent, and at Christmas time, when walking parties are staying at the lighthouse, there issues from the windows of their kitchen a constant appetising aroma. On clear nights it is possible to see the glow from the flashes of the Cliffy Island light some 20 miles to sea, the nearest neighbour of the Wilson’s Promontory light. On occasions when the visibility is very good, a faint glow from the Deal Island light, about 80 miles distant, can be seen.
During the Great War a lookout of four men was stationed in an inconspicuous position opposite the lighthouse halfway up South Peak. Their job was to look out for enemy ships, which thanks to the vigilance of the British Fleet, never appeared. The ruins of their outpost remain. Recently two well-known cyclists rode their motorcycles from Darby to the lighthouse, a feat which speaks well for the fairness of the track. I understand that a road is in course of construction from Darby to Tidal River. Whether or not this project will prove advantageous to native fauna and wild life remains to be seen. There have been several bush fires on the Promontory, and it may be hoped that, if camping is to be allowed by the wayside, care will be taken to ensure that no irresponsible persons are allowed within the sanctuary.
