Three Adventures: Epic Alpine Trek
Walked December 1990, Posted Friday 13th September 2024
Contents
- Day 1: Tawonga Huts
- Day 2: Blairs Hut
- Day 3: Dibbins Hut
- Day 4: Wallaces Hut
- Day 5: Ropers Hut
- Day 6: Cleve Cole Hut
- Day 7: Bogong Creek Saddle
- Day 8: Bogong Village
- Footnotes
Making a circuit taking in the highest peaks of Victoria’s Alps isn’t easy, with a deep valley separating Mt Feathertop and Mt Hotham from the high plains, and another separating Mt Bogong. We chose to start from Bogong Village which gave us a reasonably central starting point at the cost needing to climb over 1,100 metres on the afternoon of the first day. The full walk would take us 145 km over 8 days, covering many of the high peaks and a dozen historic huts.
Day 1: Tawonga Huts
On the drive in this morning we could see Mt Bogong covered in snow. However it was just due to a snowstorm yesterday, and by afternoon it had all gone except for the deep drifts in the gullies.
At Bogong Village we got permission from the town manager (the general storekeeper) to leave our car in the village. Dad drove me and the packs up to the start of the walk on the Spring Saddle Track, then returned the car to the village and walked back up to rejoin me.
We made good time up the track considering its steepness, the warmth of the day, and the weight of our packs: mine came in at 21 kg and Dad’s at 24 kg.
On the way we saw some interesting rocks, including sheets of mica that looked like plastic. In the forest the scent of eucalyptus was very strong. There were quite a few butterflies around, mostly monarchs and browns.
We stopped for lunch at Spring Saddle, where there were lots of little birds flitting about. We met an English couple there, who we’d see again later. After lunch we went up the Fainter Fire Track, which was pretty steep. We rested at Bogong Jack Saddle, and when we continued on the track seemed to get even worse! From one of our rest spots we got a good view of Mt Arthur1 and the The Grey Hills, and we were able to pick out our planned route down on the last day.
Taking a break at Bogong Jack Saddle.
Finally we got up in to the open, and left the road to go cross-country to the top of the ridge between the two Mt Fainter peaks. There were a few snowdrifts still lying around, and several streams up near the tops.
Leaving our packs behind we visited the north peak, then returned to collect our packs and climbed the taller southern peak. There was a cold wind blowing so I sat in the lee of the summit cairn, from where I could see several little grassy plains below at Salt Camp Creek.
The ridge running off the western side of Mt Fainter’s southern peak.
We set off and rejoined the old road. Our original intention had been to walk cross-country along the ridge to Mt Niggerhead2 to camp, but we were too tired. So we stayed on the road, which made for fairly easy going until a few kilometres from Tawonga Huts, where a huge amount of fallen timber made progress extremely slow and arduous, forcing us to climb over, under, and through the fallen trees. With a heavy pack and at the end of a long day it felt like it would never end.
We were relieved when we finally made it to Tawonga Huts, arriving just an hour before sunset and having walked eight hours. We made camp near a nice little stream: the huts were too grotty to bother with, even tired as we were. The English couple turned up right on sunset, so things could have been worse. Hot tea and the sleeping bag were very welcome.
Day 2: Blairs Hut
Last night the sky was perfectly clear, and the stars shone like I’ve never seen before. In the morning there was frost all over the grass and on the tent, and ice in the water bottles and bag.
Tawonga Huts.
Instead of following the pole line out from the huts to the high plains, we took the track up to Mt Niggerhead. The fallen timber was quite heavy up that way too. We left our packs in the saddle before the climb up on to the peak, which is where we had originally intended to camp last night. We climbed up over the smaller peak north of the saddle, then on to the summit itself. A cold wind was once again blowing, so we didn’t stay long.
Mt Niggerhead. We climbed the minor peak on the left then the main summit to the right.
We took the more direct proper track back down to the packs, spotting a flame robin in amongst the rocks. The scrub was in flower too, purple and yellow, and there were patches of snow daisies with their bright white and yellow flowers and pink buds.
After collecting our packs we followed the ridge over to the pole line leading up on to the high plains. The ridge was clear for most of the way, the only tree cover being at the start.
Out on the exposed plains the wind was very cold, so we wasted no time in getting over to the pole line running down to Westons Hut. The track down to the hut was a bit rough in places, but the pole line ran all the way to keep us on course. The hut looked very nice from the outside but was not so pleasant within, and the roof was full of holes.
Westons Hut had seen better days.
The clear blue sky of the morning had been replaced by cloud. After a rest we set off down to Blairs Hut on the West Kiewa River3, meeting several groups on the way down. The track was considerably better than before.
The West Kiewa River at Blairs Hut.
Our intention had been to climb Diamantina Spur up to High Knob to camp, getting water from a side-trip to Feathertop, then the next day going to Dibbins Hut via Mt Hotham. But we were tired, running later than planned, and the weather was looking mirky. So we changed our plans and decided to stay at the hut, which is pleasantly located right on the river.
After lunch a trail riding group turned up, but left after a couple of hours. We made new plans for tomorrow: weather permitting we’d make a side trip up to Feathertop, then move our camp to Dibbins Hut in the afternoon.
Day 3: Dibbins Hut
Last night we decided to be lazy and slept in the hut in the nice soft bunks. It also helped us to get away early: we were off and walking just after 7:00 while the air was still icy. We followed the road up to the base of the Diamantina Spur, which was a very nice way to start the day with the forest sparkling in the morning sun, accompanied the sound of the river and the singing birds.
Diamantina Spur was very steep, but since it was cool and we only had a day pack we didn’t have too much trouble. It would have been a very different story if we’d tried it yesterday, already tired and with heavy packs.
As we got higher we got good views of Mt Feathertop across the valley between our ridge and the peak. Feathertop had snow down below 1,500 metres in the sheltered gullies. The last part up the climb up towards High Knob was tiring but we made it eventually, and found some sites that would make for good camping.
Mt Feathertop from Diamantina Spur.
We turned north along the tail end of The Razorback and were at The Cross4 in no time, from where we had no trouble climbing to the summit of Feathertop. It’s a beautiful summit and, unlike most in the Australian Alps, it’s quite narrow which gives it more of a true mountain flavour.
There were excellent views in all directions from the top. Off to the northeast were the Fainters which we’d climbed on the first day, and behind them Mt Bogong, which we’d reach near the end of our walk.
Remains of the cornices on Mt Feathertop.
It was warm in the sun but the usual cold wind was blowing, and once again some cloud was coming up out of the west. Over the West Kiewa valley we could see a falcon riding the thermals. Every now and then it would shoot up almost vertically as it caught a strong updraft.
We descended to the spring on the northwestern side of the peak and refilled our water bottles. Back at The Cross there was a flame robin sitting on the metal cross singing. The sun was hot but we made good time down Diamantina Spur and back up the road to the Blairs Hut. While taking a big pack up that spur would be hard, taking one down wouldn’t be much easier because it’s so steep and slippery, particularly towards the lower end.
The track sidling the northwestern face of Mt Feathertop.
We washed ourselves and our shirts in the river then ate lunch. After a rest we set off for Dibbins Hut. It was a warm afternoon and the road was quite steep in places, but it didn’t take us too long. Dibbins Hut looked nice from the outside but it only had wooden planks for a bed, so we camped by the small Cobungra River which runs along the edge of the grassy flats.
Dibbins Hut.
Day 4: Wallaces Hut
We got another early start today, and again we were favoured with a clear blue sky. Walking up the ridge out of Cobungra Gap heading for the high plains was lovely. The forest was still in shadow, so the white tree trunks shone dully, and the leaves were dark, dark green against the bright blue sky.
From Dibbins Hut we had joined the Alpine Walking Track, which we’d keep following for a few days, taking us most of the way to Mt Bogong.
Near the top of the climb we made a short side trip to the Basalt Temple. It’s truly a strange place, with a huge amount of tumbled stone. The stone was originally formed in columns, mainly hexagonal, and these columns have now broken and fallen.
Broken stone columns at Basalt Temple.
When we reached the high plains there was once again a cold wind blowing, and later some cloud came over. This time it was accompanied by some wispy high cloud.
We made a small detour to climb Mt Jim5, and took a break on the summit. The snow gums up there were very stunted, some only a foot or two high.
The view to Mt Feathertop from Mt Jim.
Heading across the high plains towards Cope Saddle.
Back on the main walking track we continued on to the SEC hut at Cope Saddle, where we had lunch. It wasn’t a great hut, but at least provided some shelter from the wind.
A little way further up the track we left our packs and headed up Mt Cope6, which gave us some good views from the top. After returning to our packs, we followed the track around to the very nice Cope Hut which is located in a valley, and still had a big snowdrift.
The view towards Mt Bogong from Mt Cope.
Dad at the Mt Cope summit cairn.
All along the track today there were shiny metallic-looking beetles: red, orange, yellow, green, and blue.
The Alpine Walking Track had been re-routed from here and now went over past Rover Lodge and along an aqueduct, with a small bridge connecting to the track leading up to Wallaces Hut, which is where we were camping for the night. Wallaces is a great old hut, though I wouldn’t want to stay in it.
Camping at Wallaces Hut.
There were some people there cooking with a fire, and we got a bit of the damper they’d made. It tasted great, and made me wish I’d brought the ingredients to make my own.
Day 5: Ropers Hut
There was a lyrebird around our camp this morning. We made an early start again. As we walked along the aqueduct we saw many trout in the water, mostly small but some up to a foot long. We also came across a fox who didn’t notice us until I clapped my hands, and a big hare. There were also a lot of birds out, those beautiful flame robins included.
Our luck continued with the weather, as the sky was once again clear blue. It made for a cold morning, but the walking warmed us up soon enough. The track along the aqueduct made a couple of pointless shortcuts, and after following the first we didn’t bother with the second.
Following the Langford East Aqueduct.
The track up to Marum Point was very pleasant. It passed through snow gum forest with yellow-flowering scrub, which had a nice honey scent.
We followed the Big River Fire Track up to the shoulder of Mt Nelse, where we left it to go cross-country to the actual summit. The Nelses are the fourth and fifth highest peaks in Victoria despite just looking like big hills, though the extent of the views and the huge sky do give a feeling of their altitude. A bitterly cold wind was blowing, but the reward was the great views, especially of Bogong (our next big target), which loomed up over the high plains ahead of us. We followed a little track over to Nelse North, which had equally good views.
Since we were well ahead of schedule we decide to make a side trip over Mt Steadfast7, Victoria’s third highest peak, and to Spion Kopje8. We dumped our packs at Warby Corner and took the road. The view from Steadfast was good, but the view from Spion Kopje was magnificent. All the southern faces of Bogong were visible along with most of the Alps: Buffalo, Feathertop, and even the distant Main Range.
Mt Bogong from Spion Kopje.
Mt Feathertop and the Fainters from Spion Kopje.
Back at the packs we had a short rest then set off for Ropers Hut. Along the road we met a brown falcon perching on a snow pole. Every time we got close it flew a couple of poles further along until once again we got too close, and so on. Nearer to the hut we saw a smaller black falcon. It must be good hunting country for them here with so much open space.
We arrived at the hut in the early afternoon and set up our tent in a nice spot. There was a lot of fallen timber lying around, so we spent some time collecting it into piles to clear the area a bit.
Ropers Hut campsite.
The sky, which had been clear all day, started filling with strange clouds. They looked very soft, and didn’t seem to have any definite edge. I wasn’t sure what they meant weather-wise, but I didn’t think we’d have a change yet as a high had just started passing through. The wind had eased back a bit today, and it had been warmer than it had been for a while.
We collected water from just below a small waterfall not far from the hut. There were little fish there, a surprise given how small the stream was, and how high up in the Alps.
Day 6: Cleve Cole Hut
While having breakfast this morning a hare hopped slowly past. I had the feeling it was an elderly one.
We made an even earlier start today. Our usual clear blue sky was replaced with some high-level cloud, so we had cool conditions for the descent to Big River down Duane Spur. It was a very nice spur to walk on. Down near the river the track zigzagged back and forth many times before emerging on to the river bank among ferns, mossy logs, and scrub.
Crossing Big River.
There was a chain across the river to assist with crossing. We didn’t really need it today as the water was only about 1½ feet deep, though it was flowing reasonably fast. The water wasn’t as cold as I had anticipated, but even so it froze my legs.
The start of the track up T Spur didn’t mess about and headed straight up the very steep ridge. After a while the grade lessened and the walking became quite pleasant, especially with the sweet smell of the bush. A fire had burnt through the area, so in places there was a bit of regrowth, but nothing too bad.
Dad on T Spur.
There was another sharp pinch approaching T Spur Knob, but once over that there were no particularly steep sections. We heard a lyrebird calling and saw kookaburras, yellow-tailed black cockatoos, and gang-gangs.
Past the site of Madisons Hut the track followed a little valley with a stream. We saw a couple of flame robins which were distinctly more red than the others we’d seen.
We made a side trip down to see Howmans Falls, which are really quite spectacular. There are some smaller falls before the major falls. We only saw the major falls from above, but they were quite a sight, emptying into pools carved from the rock.
Minor falls above the main Howmans Falls.
Pools at the base of Howmans Falls.
We collected our packs and made our way up to Cleve Cole Hut. We decided to spend the night in the hut — a bit lazy perhaps, but well deserved. There was only one other guy around (Richard), who was also staying in the hut. He was quite a character: he had a theory that aboriginals in the area had lived in caves, and was looking for the caves so he could live in them.
This evening it rained for about five minutes, which was the first rain we’ve had for the whole trip.
Day 7: Bogong Creek Saddle
We got off to an early start today, which was just as well as it turned out hot. We walked up the the long ridge towards Mt Bogong, passing Tadgell Point, Lendenfeld Point, and Eskdale Point before reaching the iconic summit cairn.
Mt Bogong from Tadgell Point. The huge summit cairn is clearly visible even at this distance.
West Peak from the summit of Mt Bogong.
The area was lovely: there were still sizeable drifts of snow, and the vegetation was a patchwork of colours against the grey rock: olive, lime, ice-green, straw, and yellow.
At the summit there were lots of green Macleay’s Swallowtail butterflies fluttering about. I’d seen the same butterflies on many of the high peaks of this walk.
From the summit we walked over to the Hooker Plateau, where we left our packs and made a side trip to the West Peak. Back at the packs we began the descent of Quartz Ridge, which looked spectacular with the golden-flowered scrub on the east side and cliffs on the west. After an initial steep drop the ridge went up and down over several knolls, before finally dropping down to a road. The same road (Big River Fire Track) leads all the way up over the Nelses where we were two days ago.
Mt Bogong from the West Peak.
Descending Quartz Ridge towards Big River.
For our campsite we chose the old helipad, which was well situated for our walk out tomorrow. However, we discovered one downside of camping on a helipad when pitching the tent and found the ground was rock hard.
Our helipad campsite.
It was a hot afternoon and we’d been out walking for a week, so we went down to the Big River for a much-needed wash. The water was icy cold, no more than a few degrees above freezing, and very refreshing. Later we got a few spots of rain, but nothing much.
Bath time at Big River.
We saw many hunting birds hovering above the slopes near our campsite. They would suddenly fold up their wings and dive into the trees in pursuit of their prey.
Day 8: Bogong Village
Last night I was kept awake for ages by bats with their high-pitched peeps. We also got strong winds, which could be heard roaring up the valley, then shaking the nearby trees, before hitting the tent with a blast. Fortunately the worst of it passed overhead.
I also heard howling echoing from down in the Big River valley: probably a dingo or a feral dog.
Our original intention had been to climb Mt Arthur and descend Black Possum Spur into Bogong Village. Last night we decided to follow the old roads to Bogong Village instead.
We got our earliest start yet, just an hour after sunrise, and quickly covered the distance to the Bogong Creek Huts. A small track led to the start of an aqueduct, which is also where we met the Bogong Creek Tramway9 — a little railway used for inspection and maintenance of the aqueduct.
Following the tramway beside the aqueduct.
We followed the tramway all the way back to the start, seeing various wagons (skips, tanks, and a flat), the site of a landslide, and some passing loops on the way. There were more wagons and an engine at the start of the line.
The start of the tramway near Clover Dam. Note the “garden shed on wheels” carriage behind the orange engine.
From here we decided to take a shortcut back to the village. We went up a fire track to the power line clearing above the village, where we could see what looked like a nice grassy opening leading down to the dam. Appearances were deceiving though: the “grassy opening” was actually bracken at least four feet high with small trees, logs, and nettles. But eventually we emerged at Lake Guy, and we walked through the site and on to the village to finish our epic alpine trek.
Footnotes
- This peak was originally known as Mt Arsehole, but was changed when the area was being surveyed for the Kiewa Hydroelectric Scheme. Cattleman Glen Wills had this to say: “We always called it Mt Arsehole. Then they came along with all their fancy bloody maps and ideas. Changed it to Mt Arthur. Christ knows why. Bastard of a place anyway”. From WikiSki (archived). ↩
- Since the time of this walk Mt Niggerhead has been officially renamed to Mt Jaithmathang to address perceived offensiveness to aboriginals, however the new name has also proven controversial. ↩
- “Kiewa” is a local aboriginal word meaning “sweet water”. ↩
- Back in 1990 there was an actual metal cross at The Cross, but it’s long since gone. ↩
- Named after Jim Brown. He and Jack Wells are credited as the first Europeans to reach the Bogong High Plains while searching for new summer grazing land for Cobungra Station in 1851. The pair named many features of the High Plains including Mt Feathertop, The Fainters, The Niggerheads, The Razorback, Blowhard, Bucketty Plain, Rocky Valley, and Pretty Valley. ↩
- This peak was known as Mt Jack for a long time, named after Jack Wells and as a pair to Mt Jim. It was apparently given the name Mt Cope in the late 1800’s by the Secretary of Mines to honour Thomas Cope, who had been a judge of the Court of Mines. Thomas Cope is not recorded as ever having visited the peak. ↩
- This peak, located about 1 km west of Warby Corner, has no official name despite being the highest in the vicinity. It’s also known as Mt Nelse West. ↩
- “Spion Kopje” is Afrikaans meaning “Spy Hill” or “Lookout Hill”. ↩
- Surprisingly this tramway continued to operate until quite recently, closing a couple of years ago. Videos of the tramway in operation are available on YouTube. ↩
