Three Adventures: Tin Mine Cove
Walked November 1990, Posted Friday 13th September 2024
Contents
The northern end of Wilsons Promontory is less popular than the southern end, and that contributes to it being more of a wilderness. The paths are a mix of old vehicle tracks and faint walking tracks, though sometimes it is easier to simply follow the coastal rocks between the beaches.
Day 1: Tin Mine Cove
Getting a camping permit for this walk proved to be much more difficult than it should have been. We waited at the entry gate of the Prom for forty minutes, but nobody turned up. In the end we gave up and went down to Tidal River and got our permit there, which wasted another hour or so. All this bother caused us to start much later than we’d intended, but at least we had long hours of daylight, and the distance we were walking wasn’t huge.
The weather was cool as we set off from the Five Mile Car Park, and it wasn’t long before it started to rain. A strong cold wind sprang up from the west (directly behind us), so we were able to use the packs as shields against the rain. After a while the rain stopped, though we got some drizzle and a few showers later on.
We reached the Chinaman Creek track turnoff and followed the firebreak until a slashed track led off north. It was a very pleasant track, traversing heathland and banksia forest.
There was an interesting variety of plant life: the big banksia trees with their gnarled and knobbly trunks, saw leaves, and big flowers; grass trees, many of which were flowering; melaleuca, which was flowering and had a wonderful honey smell; tea tree and grevillea, both flowering; and a few short eucalypts. There were also many other flowers out: fairies aprons, a purple daisy, purple flag, milkmaids, trigger plants, twining fringe lilies, and a few butterfly flags which were absolutely beautiful.
Eventually we arrived at the Lower Barry campsite, which is a very attractive place. At this point the creek flows in a fairly deep bed, though there was only a small amount of water at the bottom when we were there. All around were sassafras trees and lovely big ferns.
The creek at Lower Barry campsite.
We stopped for lunch, which was when we discovered a large population of mosquitoes. Or rather, they discovered us. Perhaps camping here wouldn’t be much fun! After lunch we crossed the creek on a fallen tree trunk and continued on. There were a series of dry creek beds on the eastern side which might flow after heavy rain. There was also a swampy-looking pool, which may explain the mosquitoes.
The track was little more than a part in the scrub, which suited us fine, being a nice change from the Five Mile Road. The track was mostly in banksia forest with grass tree undergrowth. It was strange and beautiful country to walk through due to the unusual nature of the plants. At one point we disturbed a tree full of rosellas and they flew off shrieking.
We got into open heathland and could see Chinaman Creek not far ahead, marked by the line of trees that follow its course. The creek was more of a swamp this far north. The track plunged into the water, its course a cleared space through the tea tree. The water was never more than about three feet deep, and there was a fairly firm mud base to walk on. Water lilies and reeds grew in the water. It wasn’t hard to imagine that we were in the tropics rather than the Prom.
Crossing Chinaman Swamp.
The first arm of the creek was about a hundred metres wide. The second arm was only about half that, but it also had an unpleasant smell. The third and final arm was about the same again. After each arm the water would pour out of our gaiters, and squelch out of our shoes.
The track continued winding its way across the heathland until we found another small swampy creek to cross. After that it wasn’t long until we reached a slashed track again. We followed this and, as we were getting close to Chinaman Long Beach, we came across a very big tiger snake. It was about four feet long and quite fat. Dad didn’t see it until he was next to it (it was lying lengthways along the path) and he jumped when he did notice it. You wouldn’t think that someone who is tired and carrying a heavy pack could jump so high!
We tried unsuccessfully to get the snake to move: perhaps it was too cold? Since I had to pass it by, I got a stick to use as rudimentary protection, kept as far away from it as I could, and got past it without trouble.
As the track approached the beach it passed through a pretty grove of casuarinas behind the foredune. It would make a great campsite apart from the lack of a fresh water supply.
Out on the beach a strong westerly wind was blowing, creating a continuous stream of tiny waves on the normally still waters of Corner Inlet. All around the shore were large groups of black swans, feeding, swimming, and flying. Washed up on the shore were lots of shells and sea grass and foam.
We walked along the beach and I collected some shells as we went. True to its name it is a long beach, but at last we reached the far end where a track leads over the headland and into Tin Min Cove. Climbing up over the headland gave us a good view back over the beach with the ranges of the southern Prom in the background, their tops brushed by showers.
Looking south along Chinaman Long Beach.
On the path we found a blue-tongued lizard. One of its feet was missing with just the stump of the leg remaining. There was more wildlife waiting for us too: as we neared Tin Mine Cove there was another tiger snake on the path, this time lying right across it and blocking our way. We encouraged it to move with some banksia cones, and after a while it slithered off and we headed down to the beach.
The northern end of Tin Mine Cove.
It’s a nice little beach, but we were surprised to see a sign saying the campsite was back the way we had come. We walked back up and found a tiny track that led into a few gaps in the trees. We set up the tent in one of the better gaps and had a rest.
We made our tea then got back into the tent for a while. Later we went for a walk along the beach before turning in for the night. The night wind howled through the branches, though we were snug enough camped amongst the trees. With my head on my pillow I could hear the creaking of the trees conducted through the earth.
Day 2: Johnny Souey Cove
It rained on and off for a while around sunrise, but it didn’t continue for long. After breakfast we packed up and made a start back the way we’d come in yesterday. Just as we were walking back up the hillside we saw a group of people from the Friends of the Prom turn up at the cove in a small boat.
When we reached Chinaman Long Beach we dropped our packs and spent some time exploring the rocks at the end of the beach. Dead sea grass was piled up in massive matted drifts.
Rocks at the northern end of Chinaman Long Beach.
After retrieving our packs we walked down the sand to the start of the jeep track. We had a bit of trouble locating the track due to the sign pointing the wrong way.
We made good time along the road in the cool conditions. The road itself was pleasant to walk on, and it was really more of a walking track. It wandered around through banksias and open heathland. At one point we saw a big bird of prey soaring overhead.
We reached the junction and took the turnoff to Three Mile Beach1. The road on this section goes up and down like a rollercoaster, and ends at Lighthouse Point. The “lighthouse” is actually a bare-bones navigation beacon, and we climbed it for a view all the way along the beach.
Approaching Three Mile Beach.
Down on the sand we left our packs on a rock and climbed around the rocks of the point until we could see the whole of the coast to the north. It looks as if it would be easy going.
The view north from Lighthouse Point.
Back on Three Mile Beach it was easy walking with bare feet on the hard-packed sand. The wind blew little streams of dry sand around, making patterns on the darker wet sand, and stinging our legs.
Three Mile Beach.
As we headed south along the beach we collected many interesting shells, some very beautiful. There was also a great deal of bird life to be seen: pacific and silver gulls, dotterels, sooty oyster catchers, and at the far end of the beach, large groups of terns.
Terns at the southern end of Three Mile Beach.
We had lunch after climbing around the first little point of rock. Afterwards we continued scrambling around the rocks of Three Mile Point, meeting two big cormorants on the way. Even with our large packs we had no trouble with the rocks.
When we got to the camping ground at Johnny Souey Cove we set up our tent and rested for a while, then set off to explore the rocks out to Johnny Souey Point. There were a few tricky spots and this section would obviously be easier at low tide. We could see all the way down to Monkey Point: the going looked possible, but perhaps not easy.
Two people turned up later, and were the only company we had. After tea we walked down the beach and back to pass the time. Although it was high tide, the water was actually very low.
Day 3: The Five Mile Road
Once again we had intermittent rain around sunrise. During a break in the rain we packed up and set off. For a while it seemed as if the weather might turn out to be fine, but as we neared the top of the hill2 climbing out of the cove it began to drizzle, and was again accompanied by a strong, cold westerly. There was no escaping the wind, which was blowing straight into our faces.
The track was bordered by white kunzea, which was in flower. Near the top of the hill we came across a wallaby, which hopped off into the bushes. The very cold conditions made walking unpleasant, but at least it encouraged us to keep up a good pace.
Coming into Chinaman Creek we saw another wallaby. At the creek we had a brief rest. It was a lovely spot in the wet conditions; the trees gleamed, the creek bubbled in its bed, and the ferns swayed gently in the little breeze that made its way down into this sheltered spot.
We were soon on our way again. Some of the scrub had been burnt a while back, and in these areas groups of butterfly flags grew, a flower which normally seems to be rare. Approaching Barrys Creek we saw another wallaby. This one didn’t go far away, so we were able to get a good look at it, but we didn’t stop for too long.
On the hill above Cow Creek we got an extensive view of another large strip of land which had been burnt. Here every grass tree was flowering, so there was a forest of the tall cream-coloured flower stalks by the road side.
The drizzle had stopped, but the wind continued to blow from dead ahead. Up near the Vereker Lookout turnoff we spotted yet another wallaby. We also saw huge numbers of yellow-tailed black cockatoos, who called noisily to each other. Soon we were back at the car, relieved to be out of the cold, but glad to have completed this interesting walk.
Continue to Part 3: Epic Alpine Trek
Footnotes
- This junction no longer exists. It used to be where the track diverged left to Three Mile Beach or right past Mt Margaret to St Kilda Junction. Only the Three Mile track still exists, though it’s far more overgrown nowadays. ↩
- This section of the walk has since been re-routed to go via Five Mile Beach. Back in 1990 it climbed the hill behind Johnny Souey Cove and headed to St Kilda Junction via the Mt Margaret Track. ↩
